Diner at Eight

I say "in my opinion" because my dining companion went all soft and mushy over her own appetizer, warm almond-crusted brie pieces ($8.95) that exactly resembled chicken fingers. I thought they were pretty good. We argued about this while she mopped up every drop of the raspberry sauce they came with, licking the warm brie goo rapturously from her fingers.

The evening's special was a roast pork tenderloin with barbecue sauce, sauerkraut, and corn bread ($19.95), and both this and the pot roast were as pleasing as they were reasonably priced. The pacing of our meal was brisk — white-haired ladies and gents having mostly cleared out by the time we arrived at 8:30 — and our servers clearly wanted to be done with it. And, anyway, we were so full of Henry's delicious bread (warm, many grained, served with fine, sweet butter) and our hefty appetizers that we could only pick and muse over these wonderful entrées. My pork tenderloin was cooked medium-rare, moist, pink, and spicy, couched in a bit (but not too much) earthy barbecue sauce with swirls of marinated cabbage on the side. The cabbage had terrific, exhilarating notes of cider and cardamom. There were wedges of thin, sweetish, toasty cornbread too. For a homestyle dish, this couldn't have been improved. And we felt immediate affection for the pot roast — not least because the "wild mushrooms" advertised on the menu actually did appear on the plate (you'd be surprised how rarely this happens), the mashed potatoes were creamy and flavorful, the little French beans had plenty of snap, and every element was in pitch-perfect harmony. This was comfort food that couldn't fail to comfort.

Joe Rocco

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Henry's

16850 Jog Road
Delray Beach, FL 33446

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Delray Beach

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Details

Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. till 2:30 p.m., Saturday noon till 2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday through Thursday 5:30 till 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10 p.m. Happy hour Monday through Friday 5 to 6:30 p.m. Call 561-638-1949.

16850 Jog Rd., Boca Raton

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More About

• Burt Rapoport
• Boca Center
• Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino
• Meat
• Eating Out

We didn't need or want the shortcake ($8.95) with "Georgia peaches" and blueberry sauce we choked down afterward, and it was forgettable anyway — those peaches were evidently canned in Georgia. The crumbly, dry shortcake and sweet whipped cream was cloying after a few bites. Henry's hearty appetite, evidently, yearns only for the big, big meat. It's certainly what the place does best. And for a luxuriously appointed Jersey diner named after Rapoport's pet dog, what else should we expect?