Meat Stroke

At Gol!, the temperature's risin'

Getting seated at all will likely depend on a reservation, because Gol! is a hot spot, evidently a favorite with meat-seeking missiles of all sizes, shapes, and ages: young families with kids, snowbirds dressed up and dressed down, big parties of golden-haired dames with their dates (there are so many shimmering blonds on Atlantic Avenue these days that you might as well be in Helsinki). These youngish people, we noticed, eat together in groups of eight or ten — the girls all sitting together on one side of the round tables, the guys on the other. They order a lot of wine from Gol!'s excellent list, handpicked by Reider and featuring particularly Malbecs and Carmeneres from Argentina and Chile (including dozens of interesting wines served by the glass), or pitchers of sangria, and then they barely converse across gender lines. Weird.

Joe Rocco

Location Info


Gol! The Taste of Brazil

411 E. Atlantic Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33483

Category: Restaurant > Brazilian

Region: Delray Beach


Dinner daily from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Call 561-272-6565.
411 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach

By the time dessert comes around, remember that in Brazil, it's the height of rudeness to say how stuffed you are. Politeness precludes groaning, rubbing belly, loosening belt, making disgusting burbling noises, or pretending to gag on index finger. Brazilians say, "Thank you; I'm satisfied." If you can't bring yourself to utter those words, you can opt for a frozen papaya cream concoction ($8.50) with blackberry cassis — I found this almost flavorless, and it gave me an ice-cream headache, but I ate every bite. There's a ridiculously rich chocolate mousse cake ($7.50), so dense it cleaves to your mouth like peanut butter (this got raves from everybody). And a whole bunch of dessert drinks to choose from too, but since no prices are listed on the dessert menu, proceed with caution. Oh, what the hell. Just order a chocolate martini.

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