Spanish on the Fly

Me gusta Saffrón

Our mini empanadas were encased in corn meal and fried, which gave them a satisfying crunch, stuffed with spiced minced beef and chopped onion with the consistency of pot roast. These were good with both salsas — the rather sweet marinara and a lime-infused fresh tomato and onion, and there was a small fresh green salad to lighten things up.

Honestly, since both of us were recovering from stomach bugs brought on by gorging on too much Guatemalan fruit, these plates would have been enough to satisfy — they make a great small meal and yet another option for dining out in hard times. But I was glad I'd ordered the nightly entrée special, a broiled, flat-iron steak topped with grilled shrimp and served with mashed potatoes, not least for the value — it was just $14.95. And Ms. A had two fillets of mahi ($20) stuffed with cream cheese and topped with shrimp over a nest of buttery, al dente angel hair. The flat iron is a cut of beef from the shoulder, and some people say it combines the tenderness of filet mignon with the deep flavor of a rib eye. The problem is, it's got a band of connective tissue that runs through it that has to be carefully removed. If it isn't, the thing is a bitch to cut — the best you can do is sort of tear it away, and at that point you've kind of ruined the look of your steak. That's what I had to do with this one. The meat had rich flavor, and it was tender, for sure; the shrimp were tasty, and the potato straws had lots of crunch. But that strand of tissue ought to have been seen to by the kitchen.

Ms. A's mahi was excellent, white and succulent, with just enough cream cheese inside to add creaminess without overkill. There was a tart, rough tomato sauce scattered around, and everything was well-seasoned — true of my steak too.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Saffron

731 Village Blvd.
West Palm Beach, FL 33409

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: West Palm Beach

Details

Saffrón Modern Latin Bistro, 2320 Weston Rd., Weston. Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. till 2 p.m. and for dinner Monday through Saturday 6 till 10 p.m. Call 954-217-4008.

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Our waitress recommended tres leches for dessert ($7). We took it home and had it later — a velvety sponge cake with a layer of whipped cream, sticky brown dulce de leche, and a topping of sweet, runny, coconut-laced cream. It was fantastic.

We live in sad times if a restaurant this good should be scrambling for customers. Here's excellent food in surroundings that wouldn't look shabby at the chichiest joints in Antigua — and the prices are right for today's tightened belts. Vamos, amigos.

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