Every bite of seafood we ate during two visits was lively and pleasant, from a yellowfin tuna tartar, the dewy pink cubes dressed in a mild wasabi crème fraîche ($12.95), to a freeform crab cake filled with a quarter pound of minced shellfish surrounded by a buttery pool of lemon mustard sauce ($13.95). Three King crab fritters ($9.95) were puffs of lacy crust barely held together around dense, sweet crab meat, a caloric nightmare pared with rémoulade and crisp slivers of crab "chips" but a dish that should be on everybody's splurge list along with a blue cheese caesar salad ($7.95) daubed with Point Reyes blue cheese chunks and handfuls of crushed croutons.

We opted for simple entrées: the whole Dover sole, because it has been years since I've had one worth the expense; scallops sautéed Hong Kong-style with scallions and ginger in a sherry soy with jasmine rice ($23.50), and Chatham Bay cod ($22.95) sautéed in olive oil. Cod from Chatham Bay is thicker and sweeter than most cod; it's usually caught on day boats, and the population is still in fairly good shape (I'll be in Chatham by the time you read this and will have further reports on our food blog at CleanPlateCharlie.com). A waiter brought our whole Dover sole to the table before taking it to be filleted. The snowy flesh, dotted with little capers and a flourish of melted butter, was worth every one of those 42 dollars. The scallops had the prettiest butterscotch-colored crust; the cod flaked gently beneath its sheen of butter. An excellent piece of fish doesn't need anything.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

City Fish Market

7940 Glades Road
Boca Raton, FL 33434

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Boca Raton

Details

City Fish Market, 7940 Glades Rd., Boca Raton. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and dinner 4 till 10 p.m. Call 561-487-1600.

A chef who tosses a fillet into a pan and squirts it with lemon juice is showing a hell of a lot of restraint — and beyond the odd Parmesan crust or brandy peppercorn sauce, Hoff simply refuses to show off. He lets his fish just be. He must feel that he's doing enough by sourcing fresh seafood with a sustainable pedigree and seeing that it stays fresh until the last bite has been swallowed. It's a delicate art, not fully appreciated by most of us. But while obstinate bigwigs like Nobu keep serving endangered bluefin, the tide is turning. Hoff and companies like Buckhead Life will be riding the new wave.

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