My wife's Hawaiian wahoo ($20) was even more timidly seasoned. It came with an avocado cream, corn succotash, and smoked tomato sauce that were all so bland that they couldn't even stand up to the flavor of the mild fish. On top was a pair of shrimp prepared ceviche-style that was served cold and was decidedly the most intense part of either dish. That said, the citrusy kick of the chewy shrimp simply didn't go along with the rest of the entrée — a bite of the shrimp and you'd be challenged to taste anything else on the plate.

What didn't lack flavor was the $5 side dish of leeks baked in smoked Gouda. The oniony bite of the leeks complemented the melted cheese perfectly, and the crispy topping, which was reminiscent of good French bread crust, was perfectly broiled to a buttery crisp.

Continuing Truluck's old-school approach, our waiter came by with the dessert tray, which contained seven items made in-house, he promised. (I found out later that the items on the dessert and crab trays are all plastic replicas, but you'd never guess.) We were tempted by the chocolate bag, split open tableside and poured with a chocolate sauce, but decided on the "award-winning" carrot cake.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Truluck's Seafood, Steak & Crab House

2584 E. Sunrise Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Fort Lauderdale

Truluck's Seafood, Steak & Crab House

351 Plaza Real
Boca Raton, FL 33432

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Boca Raton

Details

Truluck's 2584 E. Sunrise Blvd., Fort Lauderdale. The bar opens at 4:30 p.m. daily. Open for dinner 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 954-396-5656, or visit trulucks.com.

It came out, like all of our dishes, via a food runner who dropped it off on a tray stand near our table. It sat there for a good five minutes as we waited for somebody to deliver it to our table. It was a regular problem that night, and even our long-finished dinner plates sat in front of us as waiters scrambled past. It seemed Truluck's had a one-server-per-table policy, which would've been fine if our guy hadn't had three of them, including a nearby whopper of ten people.

When he finally got a break to bring the cake, our waiter doused it with a gravy boat of butterscotch sauce. Then he topped it with spiced pecans. The cake had a cream-cheese icing that was cloyingly sweet, but it was also perfectly spiced, and the nuts on top included a nice kick — a satisfying way to finish a meal that was otherwise fairly simple.

As we debated whether it was Vietnamese chili making those nuts so spicy, we wondered why the rest of our meal couldn't have been that flavorful. Perhaps it was the mostly elderly diners, who looked to be living out a Viagra commercial nearby. Or maybe Truluck's is the kind of place that does well in a mall, where diners want simple, well-cooked dishes that don't challenge the bounds of a chain. We decided we'd still bring my in-laws. But we'll make them pay for the valet.

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