It was easy to forgive the passable house and caesar salads served before our entrées, especially when operating on such a pleasant buzz from the wine and meat. (The same lack of attention to detail plagues the side dishes — Taurus offers only mashed potatoes, fries, steamed veggies, or rice and beans.) Personally, I was saving room for the real prize: a plato of grilled short ribs ($12.50), four hunks of beef cut across two bones and gushing with savory juices. The tenderness of the gristle-free ribs was eclipsed only by the vacio ($13.50), a flank cut that sports a pronounced yet plush grain. At nearly two inches thick and cooked to a perfect char set around a square of attractive ruby red, my vacio was a far cry from the thin, leathery flanks weighing down supermarket coolers. It also needed no sauce beyond the rich pool of juice it left behind. Come back for lunch and a hefty piece of beefy vacio, along with a side and salad, will set you back only $7.50 (and maybe require a nap afterward).

Taurus' parrillada ($36.50) is steeped in South American tradition. It's a dish designed to be shared among friends and family, a mountain of meat constructed of the flesh of no fewer than four animals and big enough to feed an equal number of humans. Its spoils were many: more anticuchos and some slightly chewy kidneys; thin slices of marinated pork loin, lamb, and beef; half a rotisserie chicken that, though it went largely untouched by our red-meat-hungry crew, was exceptionally juicy and flavorful; and two sausages, a rich, porky chorizo and a pungent piece of black-as-night blood sausage. No parts were spared, and I would not spare them. My companions squirmed and squinted at the tubular vessel of congealed blood and spice, denying my every move to stealthily push a smidge on to their plates. They stretched instead for the thin-cut steak, for the lamb and pork and anticuchos, slicing and passing samples to one another as if tasting every last piece on the plate was some sacred duty. No problem — that's more morcilla for me to slather across bites of meat and spread into the delicious, grainy mashed potatoes Taurus serves snow-capped with Parmesan cheese.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Taurus Steakhouse

6965 W. Commercial Blvd.
Tamarac, FL 33319

Category: Restaurant > Peruvian

Region: Lauderhill

Details

Taurus Steakhouse, 6965 W. Commercial Blvd., Tamarac. Open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. until 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m. Call 954-933-0000, or click here.

We bickered over who would snatch the last few pieces of meat from the parrillada, not because we wanted them to ourselves but because the thought of taking home a pound of leftovers seemed absurd. We sat and finished our wine for a while as plates were cleared and shuffled away. An odd transformation had occurred at some point during the meal: Through all the passing of meat, the refilling of wine glasses, the sharing of bounty with those you hold dear, the empty restaurant seemed to contract snugly around us. We were left to float in the glowing wake of a meal that would feel far more decadent, more indulgent, if not for the humble nature of it all.

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