Bash Wine Café in Sunrise Delivers Comfort Food at a Helluva Price

Not everything works flawlessly. A special of crab cakes was described as "fab," but the pan-seared mounds were plain, despite a dressing of roasted red pepper coulis and a too-dry piece of grilled polenta. And at $22, they also cost more than anything on the regular menu. Bash rotates a seafood or a ravioli special daily, and each time I went, the latter was Parmesan pumpkin ($13). It's another dish I'd skip, as the pockets of pasta are underfilled and sit in a flavorless pool of browned butter.

For the best value at Bash, though, stick to the food that sticks to your ribs: specifically, short ribs braised in Mr. Pibb, of all things ($18). These meaty cuts appear from the kitchen with great regularity, catching jealous glances from neighbors as they land on tables nearby before being promptly devoured. You'd think the meat would be cloying after bathing in syrupy soda for a few hours, but the lightly sweet flavor cuts through the fat nicely. A pounded breast of pecan-encrusted chicken ($13) is just as indulgent: It has an airy, savory crust but better deserves the prefix "chicken-fried" thanks to a ladling of creamy bourbon mustard sauce. Both portions are so large that you'll be trucking leftovers home along with your shelved restraint.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

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Bash Wine Cafe and Catering

8067 W. Oakland Park Blvd.
Sunrise, FL 33351

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Sunrise/Plantation

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Details

Bash Wine Café and Catering, 8067 W. Oakland Park Blvd., Sunrise. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 11 p.m., and Sunday 5 to 10 p.m. Call 954-578-6700, or click here.

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More About

• Nikki Pettineo
• Veronica Lopez
• Mr. Pibb
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

After a meal like that, you're already too loaded with booze and lipids to resist a plate of brownies wrapped in crunchy wonton skin and deep-fried ($9). The brownie melts inside the wrapping and is doused with chocolate sauce and served with a couple of outsized scoops of ice cream. Simple, cheap, impossible to go wrong. Not to mention it pairs great with the check, which even after three courses and a few glasses of wine will likely run you less than $60 for two.

Price is a funny thing: it's both an indicator of value and a factor of it. In defense of all those restaurants out there contributing to Florida's bloated average price, balancing consumer demand with affordability is not easy. Bash has somehow found a place where the two can meet in equal harmony. Now that's worth celebrating.