Mills also knows the value of presentation. When an order of tomato bisque soup ($9) leaves the kitchen, its white bowl capped by a glowing orb of Parmesan-speckled puff pastry, it demands attention. And once the pastry is pricked with a fork, it pops like a balloon, filling the restaurant with tomato-basil scented steam. People tend to order the soup in droves after seeing that. Beyond the extravagant presentation is a soup worth raving about. There's the gentle coaxing of vine-ripe tomatoes with wine, shallots, and garlic. It's clear, simple, and damned near perfect.
Other dishes turn heads at Jimmy's too. The seafood paella ($26), which I mourned not trying, caught adulterous glances at every table it landed on. I had opted instead for the local hog snapper ($30), which was nearly as striking. Pan-seared and plated with a lively sauté of julienned squash, the fillet sported a beautiful golden crust on one side hiding a swath of snowy white flesh underneath. I only wished the plain Basmati rice it was served on had been better thought out. The fish was local and well-executed — shouldn't it be paired with something more elegant, especially at $30 a plate?
9 S. Swinton Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33483
Category: Restaurant > Bistro
Region: Delray Beach
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Still, I supposed that plating does strangely jibe in a restaurant that serves poor boys on white linen. Regardless, Jimmy's is the kind of place where you'll want to stuff yourself silly.
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