Yet this is just one of the inconsistencies between Aurafin's representation of the quality of Love, Earth manufacturing and worker testimony or documents uncovered in Bolivia.

New Times secured confidential payroll sheets from the Aurafin factory that show workers made far less than what would be considered "responsibly sourced" products. Base salaries for workers in 2008 were just cents above Bolivia's legal minimum, then around $85 a month. According to a 2009 report by the U.S. State Department, this minimum wage in Bolivia "did not provide a decent standard of living for a worker and family."

In the impoverished highland city of El Alto, Aurafin's subcontracted workers often earn less than $50 a month for full-time work.
Noah Friedman-Rudovsky
In the impoverished highland city of El Alto, Aurafin's subcontracted workers often earn less than $50 a month for full-time work.
The entrance to Aurafin's Exportadores Bolivianos factory in La Paz has no sign, nothing to indicate its existence as one of the largest factories in highland Bolivia.
Noah Friedman-Rudovsky
The entrance to Aurafin's Exportadores Bolivianos factory in La Paz has no sign, nothing to indicate its existence as one of the largest factories in highland Bolivia.

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Not that Maria and Julia needed Washington to tell them that. "Basically, we make between $75 and $85 a month," Julia says, which is less than half of what Bolivian economists consider sufficient to cover basic necessities. "Sometimes we can make [more] during the high season. It means working six days a week for 12 hours," she explains. "But that's giving up your life."

Another worker, 21-year-old Claudia, says that's the worst part: "You must stay if there is production to be completed; there is no other option." She wants to go to night school but says she is threatened not to do this. "We are told that nothing that would compete with our time or take away from work being our priority will be tolerated," she explains.

For Fernando, who's finishing his ninth year as an Aurafin employee, the biggest problem is feeling threatened into silence. "The safety equipment is just for show, and we are paid miserably," says the slight father of two. "But I learned to keep my mouth shut early on when Bracamonte brought me into his office after I voiced concerns. I don't say anything anymore."

Bruno Rojas, an employment and labor rights investigator for the Center for Agrarian and Labor Development Studies, a think tank in La Paz, says that the Aurafin operation contradicts promises of Love, Earth being a responsibly sourced product. He wonders: "Isn't the point of social responsibility at least to give workers a wage that allows them to pay for their basic necessities and conditions that are better than the norm?"


José is 31 years old and, like most in the impoverished city of El Alto, Bolivia, indigenous Aymara. His thick black hair flops up and out from an even middle part, creating something resembling McDonald's arches atop his forehead. It was 2004 when he started with Aurafin: He entered the factory as a trainee, part of a highly fluctuating rookie work force that, according to the company's payroll record, makes up a constant source of new and low-paid labor.

(Though it has been years since he was employed by Aurafin, José spoke to New Times only on the condition of anonymity because he fears retaliation by the company against friends and family.)

His memories of inside the factory echo current worker testimony. José recalls being in a meeting when a coworker complained about the low pay. A supervisor responded: "You don't have the right to demand anything here because we are the ones who put the bread on your table each day." José's job of filing gold created a lot of dust, but he, like Maria and Julia, wasn't given a mask for protection.

After three months, he was let go, as were all but 30 of about 200 who entered with him. José was disheartened. But that didn't change the fact that he needed to work to help support his parents and younger bother. So in 2005, he sought out a job closer to home — in one of El Alto's talleres, or clandestine workshops, that supply labor for the Aurafin factory.

"I thought I knew what I was getting into," José remembers. He knew it would be far from a dream job, but the experience was worse than he imagined: poor pay, no benefits, long hours. Workers were forced to complete tedious tasks like braiding gold chains in rough conditions and with verbal abuse by supervisors. And it's these workshops that constitute the most glaring contradiction between Love, Earth's promises and on-the-ground reality.

According to a 2005 New York Times article, José's workplace was one of 17 subcontracted outfits used by Aurafin, accounting for 1,600 jobs. Records released in 2008 by the Aurafin factory confirm that 11 percent of its costs, or $918,000, went toward paying the workshops to produce jewelry — meaning a yearly per-worker salary of about $574, or less than $50 each month.

From the outside, the workshops are unrecognizable: a two-story house with a garage door open that signals to employees that the shop is operating, for example. Inside, according to José and Elvio Mamani, another former workshop laborer, there's nothing more than benches and chairs. Mamani has worked in various Aurafin talleres over the years and says that some of his fellow workers were as young as 14, under Bolivia's legal minimum of 18. Lighting is scant; there are no robotic magnifying glasses. "Your work materials are your hands, some tweezers, and the gold," says Mamani.

Rosario is going on her 11th year in the workshops and says nothing has changed in all that time. Rosy-cheeked with slightly crooked teeth, she daily dons a pollera, the traditional Aymara skirt, and a typical bowler hat tipped to the side. "I stay out of necessity," she said in December 2010, also requesting anonymity. She admits it's a precarious way to provide for her three children.

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  • 10/20/2011 1:49:00 AM

    Love this DIY...can I ask where you found the chunky chain?!? I've been looking so I could do the same, but no luck :( 

  • 06/29/2011 4:08:00 AM

    You seem to look at the ideals, with implementation as an afterthought.  Wal-Mart is an amazing, gigantic company and that is something very hard to change.

  • 06/29/2011 3:58:00 AM

    I must admit that I find this article a bit weak.  OK, mines are mines and a bad manufacturing group may have joined the effort.  Granted, Wal-Mart should be criticized.  But there is far less than I had hoped regarding what else is going on.  The ideals are there, perhaps the Wal-Mart's implementation is lacking, but there is not enough in this article to convince me that the whole thing is a greenwashing scam.   Then, on this weak base, there was a brief frenzy of denunciations by protest groups.  Again, fine, but they did no new investigations and generalized from a few lines in this article. The most significant thing I learned in this is about the criticisms leveled by Earthworks, which was a crucial early supporter and enabler of Love, Earth.

  • Jules4u20 03/20/2011 8:32:00 PM

    yes...rights and poor treatment of the workers is an issue Rhiannon....

  • 01/31/2011 8:41:00 PM

    @Rhiannon, the problem is that it appears WalMart isn't living up to those promises in the list you copied above. Take, for instance, the promise to respect "the rights of individuals, indigenous peoples and communities." The factory workers in Bolivia say they're forced to work long hours in rough conditions for little pay (among other problems). That in no way respects them and their community. WalMart says they're investigating what the factory workers say. Let's hope they are.

  • 01/24/2011 3:54:00 AM

    This article is very long. I think you missed the point of the jewlery line. Here are the "standards" that they are ensuring customers which are pretty strict considering: •Incorporation of lifecycle analysis into business decisions planning and management plans and to recover material value wherever possible •Continual improvement of health and safety performance •Efficient production and minimization of waste and pollution •Safe disposal and management of waste and hazardous materials •Protection of ecological functioning, ecosystem services and important biodiversity and respect legally designated protected areas •Respect for the rights of individuals, indigenous peoples and communities •Respect for employee rights regarding safe working conditions and terms of employment •Contribution to the sustainable development of communities affected by operations •Transparency of sources and assurance of sustainability performance •Compliance with applicable laws, regulations and treaties at international, national, state and local levels Here are the Long Term goals: Long Term Goal : 100% of gold, silver and diamonds used in the jewelry sold in Wal-mart will be sourced from mines and produced by manufacturers that meet Wal-Mart’s sustainability standards and criteria. We also want to incorporate recycled materials used in the jewelry by working with mines, refineries and manufacturers. Target : By 2010 achieve 10% traceability of all diamonds, gold and silver in jewelry sold in Wal-Mart from mines, refineries and manufacturers meeting Wal-Mart’s sustainability standards and criteria. Long Term Goal – Packaging : All jewelry poly-bags to be bio-degradable and convert all pallets and all boxes to recyclable materials. So what is he problem? You could look at this as a postive step in the right direction for major corporations to start being responsible for their actions.

  • GK 01/16/2011 11:37:00 PM

    Thanks for this wonderful investigation. Let's hope that this leads to changes in Wal-Mart's supply chain. It's unconscionable that these workers are being paid so little. As for the question of gold mining methods -- such as cyanide heap leaching -- the best bet for jewelry shoppers is to choose a jeweler, such as Brilliant Earth, that makes jewelry out of recycled gold. - GK, www.brilliantearth.com

  • 01/13/2011 6:44:00 PM

    dont shop walmart people. Walmart has a big hand in the wrecking of our economy.

  • R. Wilson 01/09/2011 4:49:00 PM

    I think Americamba has a point about the length. I wrote a one paragraph summary to go with those I am fowarding.

  • americamba 01/07/2011 9:07:00 PM

    thanks for the research. i will circulate as much as I can but I think it would have been more effective if it were a little shorter. You can't get everything into one article. One thing is the research project; another is the article that will reach people.

  • Paula Palmer 01/06/2011 8:09:00 PM

    Please see Cultural Survival's campaign to stop Walmart from perpetuating this hoax. Their green-washing is at the expense of the Western Shoshone people whose lands in Nevada are being ravaged to mine Love,Earth's gold, and the Aymara Indigenous workers of Bolivia who suffer harsh and degrading labor conditions in Love, Earth's manufacturing plants. See the News item and the Global Response campaign materials, including a model letter, at www.culturalsurvival.org

  • Kathy Pine 01/05/2011 12:50:00 AM

    If Walmart is serious about selling responsibly-sourced jewelry, perhaps it should join more than 260 organizations working towards becoming a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, thus assuring their business practices conform to RJC's Code of Practices for business ethics, human rights, social and environmental performance. My guess is they sadly won't be joining any time in the near future.

 

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