The workshop paid by the piece, and working eight-hour days for five or six days a week, Mamani and José took home only $40 a month — less than half of Bolivia's minimum wage.

Most of the workers were women, and José recalls supervisors berating them. "When the women didn't work fast enough, the supervisor would yell at her, calling her 'useless' and telling her that she was 'better suited for the red-light district' that was across from our workshop," remembers José. "Some of them would start to cry, and we'd be told: 'Don't console her. If she's crying, it's her own fault.'"

In the impoverished highland city of El Alto, Aurafin's subcontracted workers often earn less than $50 a month for full-time work.
Noah Friedman-Rudovsky
In the impoverished highland city of El Alto, Aurafin's subcontracted workers often earn less than $50 a month for full-time work.
The entrance to Aurafin's Exportadores Bolivianos factory in La Paz has no sign, nothing to indicate its existence as one of the largest factories in highland Bolivia.
Noah Friedman-Rudovsky
The entrance to Aurafin's Exportadores Bolivianos factory in La Paz has no sign, nothing to indicate its existence as one of the largest factories in highland Bolivia.

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In 2006, José, Mamani, and a few others decided to unionize their shop. At first, the 80 other workers were terrified — their meager pay in one of South America's poorest countries makes the difference between being able to feed and school their children or not. But with abuses mounting daily, the workers decided they had no other option. Once management got wind of their organizing, Mamani recalls, they were quickly visited by "Bracamonte's man," who tried to talk them out of their decision. The workers held their ground, and the next day they found their workshop door padlocked. The site had been closed, and all workers were fired on the spot.

Rosario knows about the incident and says she's lasted as long as she has only because she doesn't rock the boat. "My supervisor knows that I don't complain, I work at a good pace, and am reliable," she explains. But, says the woman who is not yet 40: "I'm getting too old for this." It's her eyes, she says. They are red and bloodshot and burn constantly. And her back, which is sore from years of working hunched over. "You feel like you can't raise your head because you are working so fast, and if you slow down you'll make less money," she says, instinctively hunching into her working position and then straightening up, her face belying pain as one arm moves to rub the sore area.

Rojas, with the Center for Agrarian and Labor Development Studies, says that this double-manufacturing system is common in Bolivia. "The main factory is a sort of cover," says Rojas, explaining that many companies in La Paz have one central facility that minimally abides by labor laws but that supplements its production with off-site — and off-the-books — labor. "There is no doubt that conditions in these workshops are extremely precarious and constitute serious worker exploitation," he concludes.

Bracamonte's defense at the time of the 2006 firings was that the workshops were a separate, subcontracted entity. But according to Bolivian law, the Aurafin factory is responsible for the working conditions of those employees, confirms Rojas: "Our national law is clear on this. [Aurafin] is liable."


There is not yet a Spanish translation for greenwashing. But José gets it: "They take our work and tell people that they treat us better than they do so that they buy it."

The soft-spoken man who's a strong power forward for his neighborhood soccer team took several odd jobs to support his family after Aurafin. Two years ago, he was able to go back to school and is now a law student. He plans to open a small labor-law practice.

"My dream is to sit down at the table with the bosses [like Bracamonte] but this time knowing our rights as workers," he says. "I want to help out all workers in positions like we were," he says as he glances, perhaps inadvertently, in the direction of the Aurafin factory. "You know, so they have someone on their side."

Jean Friedman-Rudovsky is a freelance journalist based in La Paz, Bolivia. She is the Time magazine reporter and ABC News producer in Bolivia and has been published in The Economist and Newsweek (Russian edition), among others. She is a fellow at the Ellen Stone Belic Institute for the Study of Women and Gender in Arts and the Media at Colombia College in Chicago.

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  • 10/20/2011 1:49:00 AM

    Love this DIY...can I ask where you found the chunky chain?!? I've been looking so I could do the same, but no luck :( 

  • 06/29/2011 4:08:00 AM

    You seem to look at the ideals, with implementation as an afterthought.  Wal-Mart is an amazing, gigantic company and that is something very hard to change.

  • 06/29/2011 3:58:00 AM

    I must admit that I find this article a bit weak.  OK, mines are mines and a bad manufacturing group may have joined the effort.  Granted, Wal-Mart should be criticized.  But there is far less than I had hoped regarding what else is going on.  The ideals are there, perhaps the Wal-Mart's implementation is lacking, but there is not enough in this article to convince me that the whole thing is a greenwashing scam.   Then, on this weak base, there was a brief frenzy of denunciations by protest groups.  Again, fine, but they did no new investigations and generalized from a few lines in this article. The most significant thing I learned in this is about the criticisms leveled by Earthworks, which was a crucial early supporter and enabler of Love, Earth.

  • Jules4u20 03/20/2011 8:32:00 PM

    yes...rights and poor treatment of the workers is an issue Rhiannon....

  • 01/31/2011 8:41:00 PM

    @Rhiannon, the problem is that it appears WalMart isn't living up to those promises in the list you copied above. Take, for instance, the promise to respect "the rights of individuals, indigenous peoples and communities." The factory workers in Bolivia say they're forced to work long hours in rough conditions for little pay (among other problems). That in no way respects them and their community. WalMart says they're investigating what the factory workers say. Let's hope they are.

  • 01/24/2011 3:54:00 AM

    This article is very long. I think you missed the point of the jewlery line. Here are the "standards" that they are ensuring customers which are pretty strict considering: •Incorporation of lifecycle analysis into business decisions planning and management plans and to recover material value wherever possible •Continual improvement of health and safety performance •Efficient production and minimization of waste and pollution •Safe disposal and management of waste and hazardous materials •Protection of ecological functioning, ecosystem services and important biodiversity and respect legally designated protected areas •Respect for the rights of individuals, indigenous peoples and communities •Respect for employee rights regarding safe working conditions and terms of employment •Contribution to the sustainable development of communities affected by operations •Transparency of sources and assurance of sustainability performance •Compliance with applicable laws, regulations and treaties at international, national, state and local levels Here are the Long Term goals: Long Term Goal : 100% of gold, silver and diamonds used in the jewelry sold in Wal-mart will be sourced from mines and produced by manufacturers that meet Wal-Mart’s sustainability standards and criteria. We also want to incorporate recycled materials used in the jewelry by working with mines, refineries and manufacturers. Target : By 2010 achieve 10% traceability of all diamonds, gold and silver in jewelry sold in Wal-Mart from mines, refineries and manufacturers meeting Wal-Mart’s sustainability standards and criteria. Long Term Goal – Packaging : All jewelry poly-bags to be bio-degradable and convert all pallets and all boxes to recyclable materials. So what is he problem? You could look at this as a postive step in the right direction for major corporations to start being responsible for their actions.

  • GK 01/16/2011 11:37:00 PM

    Thanks for this wonderful investigation. Let's hope that this leads to changes in Wal-Mart's supply chain. It's unconscionable that these workers are being paid so little. As for the question of gold mining methods -- such as cyanide heap leaching -- the best bet for jewelry shoppers is to choose a jeweler, such as Brilliant Earth, that makes jewelry out of recycled gold. - GK, www.brilliantearth.com

  • 01/13/2011 6:44:00 PM

    dont shop walmart people. Walmart has a big hand in the wrecking of our economy.

  • R. Wilson 01/09/2011 4:49:00 PM

    I think Americamba has a point about the length. I wrote a one paragraph summary to go with those I am fowarding.

  • americamba 01/07/2011 9:07:00 PM

    thanks for the research. i will circulate as much as I can but I think it would have been more effective if it were a little shorter. You can't get everything into one article. One thing is the research project; another is the article that will reach people.

  • Paula Palmer 01/06/2011 8:09:00 PM

    Please see Cultural Survival's campaign to stop Walmart from perpetuating this hoax. Their green-washing is at the expense of the Western Shoshone people whose lands in Nevada are being ravaged to mine Love,Earth's gold, and the Aymara Indigenous workers of Bolivia who suffer harsh and degrading labor conditions in Love, Earth's manufacturing plants. See the News item and the Global Response campaign materials, including a model letter, at www.culturalsurvival.org

  • Kathy Pine 01/05/2011 12:50:00 AM

    If Walmart is serious about selling responsibly-sourced jewelry, perhaps it should join more than 260 organizations working towards becoming a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, thus assuring their business practices conform to RJC's Code of Practices for business ethics, human rights, social and environmental performance. My guess is they sadly won't be joining any time in the near future.

 

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