Not surprisingly, curries are a big deal at Indus, especially at dinner, where the restaurant takes a DIY approach while offering different versions from all around the Indian subcontinent. Pick your style of curry, then pick your protein, from cheese and assorted veggies to chicken, lamb, goat, fish, shrimp, and lobster.

Madras curry ($12.99) is probably the most familiar, an unctuous coconut milk-ennobled sauce redolent of sweet spices over a base of onions, ginger, and tomatoes. Here you will miss the meat, as veggies tend to get lost amid the riot of spices. (Heat levels, by the way, are DIY as well, ranging from mild to medium, American hot to Indian hot. American hot is only mildly inflammatory; to the average Indian palate, it would be no more ferocious than cream of wheat.)

Vindaloo, the fiery, vinegar-tinged curry of the Goa region, is here neither particularly tart nor fiery, though bumping the heat level from American hot to Indian hot might bump up the interest too. But with overcooked shrimp and potatoes ($22.99), it's just a disappointment. Palak masala ($15.99), though, is anything but. In fact, it's stupid, smack yo' mama delicious, with butter-tender cubes of lamb submerged in a palate-tingling sauce smoothed out by cream and puréed spinach that manages to be explosive and elegant at the same time, like a lit M-80 hiding in a Lalique vase.

Gobi Manchurian: Tempura cauliflower in a ginger, garlic, and soy vinaigrette sauce.
Candace West
Gobi Manchurian: Tempura cauliflower in a ginger, garlic, and soy vinaigrette sauce.

Indian desserts are another matter. Even sweets-crazed Americans, who would normally eat dirt if it were covered with chocolate, have no trouble passing on India's assortment of sugary treats. So Indus' gulab jamun ($4.99) — the lone dessert available on a pair of visits — was an unexpected delight: Indian-style donut holes made from cottage cheese and wheat flour and soaked in a beguiling cardamom-rose-saffron syrup. I ate every one. But I'd still rather have another helping of veggies.

Mom would be so proud.

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3 comments
AN
AN

I went there for Mothers day and spoiled entire lunch. Menu was not great, chicken was not cooked, treatment was worst. What was great was only very very high price. Felt like stupid while paying that day. Left hungry after paying more than $100...

NOT GOING ANY TIME AGAIN.

John L.
John L.

I had a completely opposite experience from you, Bill. The place had good naan but everything else pretty subpar, especially the dessicated, dried out tandoor with mushy coating. Have you ever been to Udipi in Sunrise? They make a mean gobi manchurian (Cauliflour 99, I think they call it).

freakerdude
freakerdude

If you're lucky, they will serve you a complimentary puffed rice street food dish that is simply awesome. It's called bhalla chaat made of puffed rice, garbanzos, a spice blend, tamarind mint sauce, chutney of some sort, and cilantro.

 
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