But there's plenty more, and plenty more to like, on Sefa's mixed grill ($24), a platter that would groan if it were able, with five different meats, a big mound of lemony bulgur, and salad of chopped romaine, with roasted tomato and (Sweet Jesus, that's hot!) long pepper. This is the cold apps plate for carnivores, each element carefully seasoned, precisely cooked, utterly delicious.

Choose, if you must, among tender chunks of chicken and lamb, marinated in yogurt and herbs and quickly grilled; a single perfect medium-rare lamb chop, the bone frenched and wrapped in foil to keep it from burning; outrageously good kofte, nuggets of herb- and garlic-spiked ground beef; and thin sheets of salty-savory-irresistible gyro meat, a blend of beef and lamb cooked on the Middle East's traditional vertical rotisserie and sliced off to order. I want to make a jacket of it and wear it whenever I go out, just in case I get hungry.

Then there's dessert. We skipped the profiteroles; they might have been good, but they're French, and really, would you order baklava at Chez Le Snob? We did order baklava, and rice pudding too. The rice pudding was unremarkable, but the baklava was something else. Although most baklava is an exercise in dousing nuts and phyllo with enough sugar syrup to induce diabetic shock, this was baklascivious — crispy phyllo, lots of crunchy pistachios, just enough syrup. Really sexy stuff.

The absurdly generous cold appetizer platter ($16) includes tabbouleh, smoked eggplant salad, baba gannouj, and ezme.
Candace West
The absurdly generous cold appetizer platter ($16) includes tabbouleh, smoked eggplant salad, baba gannouj, and ezme.

Perhaps it is about the food after all.

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3 comments
Fat Hand
Fat Hand

I mean, "one cannot leave comments..."

Fat Hand
Fat Hand

Heeey Dennis! I really enjoy reading your blog, and, of course, your generally positive world-view. One observation though: I find it strange that you cannot leave comments on your blog posts, even to point out inadvertant factual mistakes. You certainly can dish it in the comments to this blog, but I wonder if you can take it. See how I am forced to track you down on this New Times blog? What gives?

Dennis
Dennis

I figured that Citara was a mush eater from his article on Morton's. Yeah, I'd much rather have some "well-balanced" smashed up chickpea peasant food than a prime bone-in filet.

"food critic" bloviation as it's best.

 
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