Actually, credit goes to Justin Jackman, who raises Akaushi (a type of Wagyu) cattle on his 5,300-acre ranch in Clewiston. The cut is called "bavette" ($25), a hanger steak-like hunk off the bottom part of the sirloin that, when cooked over high heat to caramelize the surface, sliced against the grain, and served no more than medium-rare, is to dedicated meaters what plastic surgery is to aging Hollywood actresses. Unfortunately, this beefy wonder comes with limp, listless fries that aren't worth the stomach space to consume; ask instead for some of those tasty house-made chips.

There's more too, like wild salmon that shows off Miracolo's ability to pair and contrast subtle flavors and textures. A coral-red fillet arrives with skin as brittle as ancient glass and flesh that flakes at the mere wave of a fork, gilded with tiny Dutch marble potatoes that taste like sweet earth, equally diminutive asparagus tips, nutty fava bean purée, and elegant, refined yuzu-truffle vinaigrette ($28).

Hand-cut pappardelle with spring lamb ragout is rather pricey at $22, but it does bring to the table at least twice that much in deep, unctuous, slow-cooked flavor, the lamb as tender as a baby's kiss, the mahogany-colored sauce studded with artichokes and peas, the whole thing scattered with salty-pungent pecorino.

Cedar Key clams: with tasso, corn, tomato, cilantro, Chardonnay, and grilled ciabatta.
Cedar Key clams: with tasso, corn, tomato, cilantro, Chardonnay, and grilled ciabatta.

Location Info

Map

Max's Harvest

169 NE Second Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33444

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Delray Beach

Details

Max's Harvest, 169 NE Second Ave., Delray Beach. Call 561-381-9970, or click here.

The kitchen doesn't let up with dessert either. Pineapple upside-down cake ($8) is a sweet-toothed symphony of contrapuntal flavors — the faint taste of corn and vegetal nuances of olive oil in the polenta-olive oil cake, the sweet-tangy pineapple, the slight bitterness of caramel, the dreamy blandness of vanilla ice cream. House-made doughnuts ($9), however, are pure wickedness, circles of warm, airy, cinnamon and sugar-dusted temptation that will surely lead you down the path to even further depravity, like dunking them in little vats of crème anglaise and berry compote.

Dennis Max is back. And we're all reaping the benefits.

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4 comments
Lisa
Lisa

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Hoppy
Hoppy

Bill has already established that he knows nothing about steak,so who cares?

Texas Torch
Texas Torch

I guess Bon Appetit is clueless, too since they heralded Bavette in their grilling issue.

Enlighten us, chef. What are you featuring at your restaurant these days?

Jamie
Jamie

The point here is Bill's credibility on steak. He's established that he's no meat expert. Bavette is a fancy synonym for flap meat; they sell it in Publix. They have it at Grateful Palate now and then (Google it, genius). Bavette, flank, hanger; they're very similar. So similar that if prepared similarly and pre sliced, you wouldn't know the difference. The way bill described it is exactly how you prepare any of these steaks. I like it. But saying this place has the best steak in Palm Beach County because they serve this cut is just stupid.

 
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