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"Smell that perfume," says Parsons from behind the line, taking a whiff of dried chilies in a ziplock bag. A couple of dozen "ghost chilies," as they're called, each about the size of a thumb, offer a seductive earthiness — yet hit more than a million on the Scoville scale. Compare that to Tabasco sauce at 2,500 Scoville units and you get the idea: It's best to use restraint when dressing a taco with this stuff.
At Taco Beach Shack, the location is important — perhaps more than the food. Conceived by real estate guru Alan Lieberman of South Beach Restaurant Group and partner/chef Stuart Snowhite, a former chef to a slew of national athletes, the open-air hangout, located steps from the Hollywood Beach Broadwalk, features cement floors, Ping-Pong tables, and outdoor couches. Kids might be running underfoot; a dude might be singing karaoke to "Sister Christian." A huge sign advertises rooms available at a nearby hostel so as to avoid drunk driving. (The hostel is owned by the restaurateurs.)
"Hard-core Mexican street food": Al pastor taco with pineapple from El Jefe Luchador.
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El Jefe Luchador
27 S. Federal Highway
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441
Category: Restaurant >
Region: Deerfield Beach
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Jo-Jo's Tacos, 216 E. Commercial Blvd., Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. Call 954-835-5561
El Jefe Luchador, 27 S. Federal Highway, Deerfield Beach. Call 954-246-5333.
Taco Beach Shack, 334 Arizona St., Hollywood. Call 954-920-6523.
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The menu is stacked with tacos, burritos, and quesadillas — mostly standard beef, chicken, and fish (available both grilled and Baja style), but brisket and Korean short rib are also offered for the more adventurous. Solid as the food is, patrons seem equally lured in by the $15 beer buckets and supersweet sangria.
Will tacos keep gaining momentum? Or will their popularity wane, as we've seen with comfort foods and sliders? Time will tell, but for now, there's proof: plenty of butts in the seats.
55 comments
The Guac and Chips are an experience unto themselves, and worth visiting JoJos for.I recommend their fish taco, the flank steak taco and the the Chicken and shroom tostada.
Nope. Tacos Al Carbon in Lake Worth is better than any of those places. And they're 24 hours. Trust me, go to Lake Worth Rd and Military and look for it. It's worth it.
Mmmmmmmmmm....!!!!!!!!!!!! Bhut Jolokia....!!!!!! I'm gonna have to try Jo-Joe's Tacos...
Great article, Melissa! I love El Jefe; was there last night after drinks, actually. The tortas are fantastic, too, if you've never tried them (then you must try the carnitas torta at Tacos al Carbon, it's other-worldly).
"Hard-core Mexican street food" at these Gringo joints? Don't make me laugh! No one in his right mind pays $3.50 and up for a taco. In Dallas and Tarrant (Fort Worth) counties, and all over Texas for that matter, and L.A.also, you can find tacos that ARE hard-core Mexican street food, and they generally run $1 to $1.25 each!
you got it. fine dining chefs are charging a bit more for their take on street food to make money on something that's been traditionally cheap. restaurants are less likely to make that 10% profit they used to pre recession. taco joints can bring up to 25% when you use flap meat and shoulder and cut out the servers, plates, and bistro accoutrements. thank god we don't live in dallas, eh? even with great tacos i'd be on a serious prosac regimen.
You are correct. At one point in the drafting process I differentiated between the butt and the picnic. Somewhere in the edits I changed it to shoulder and did not strike the redundancy.
The piece focuses on chefs with fine dining experience who have chosen to open taco shops with the hopes of making money now that fine dining is on the wane. It's as much about the economy as anything. It's not a roundup of the best taco places in the area. That's been done, but is always worth a renewed discussion.
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