"Florida and Hawaii have similar fish," says Max, who prefers the sweetness of Pacific wahoo over local fish. The other difference: Even with shipping, it's cheaper. Why? Florida law requires all restaurants to purchase fish through vendors unless a restaurant is adjacent to a marina.
"I can call up my guys in Hawaii while they're on a boat," says Max. "And they're sending me photos on their iPhone of fish they've just caught." Max says he gets photos at work and can earmark a whole fish that ends up in the kitchen the next day, thanks to FedEx.
Al Rodriguez remains hopeful about the season.
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The Truth Behind Florida Seafood
This is the first of two parts on the dwindling stock of local fish in South Florida restaurants. Next week: Why Florida law makes it tough for local restaurants to serve local fish.
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Few people would rather pay the money for locally caught fish, and that's a shame. I realize I'm in the minority thinking that I'd rather eat fish less often but pay more for local than to buy cheaper fish from around the world. I imagine a server telling my table about a beautiful plate of wahoo, a prized local fish. When was it caught? I'd ask. Yesterday, in Hawaii, he'd reply. The fact that a fish so prevalent in Florida waters had been flown in from afar would drain my enthusiasm for ordering the dish.
Max isn't alone in culling relationships with fishermen and skipping the vendor. In New York and elsewhere, dozens of chefs have embraced the practice. Red Hook Lobster Pound in Brooklyn has built a business around the practice, having hired a crew of Maine lobstermen, employing off-duty firefighters to drive to Maine to pick up the haul twice a week.
Barton Seaver, National Geographic fellow and author of For Cod and Country, wrote a cookbook based on sustainable fishing. Seaver sold fish that was line-caught by fishermen he had hired. "The catch is more broad and diverse when I employ fishermen instead of going through a vendor," he said. "The diversity of fish keeps chefs engaged and interested. And the stories of unusual fish and the fishermen cull loyalty with guests. Ultimately, sustainable fish becomes a more valuable product."
On the boat with Rodriguez, the fisherman handles snapper and tilefish caught that morning. Tilefish is among his favorite for its texture and buttery flavor.
Rodriguez remains hopeful about the season. "Things are just warming up," he says.
The catch barely pays for the trip. But Rodriguez is good-natured about it. I ask what's next. He says he's going to call the fish vendor he works with. "He's gonna love today's catch. I'd love to be the one who's eating this tomorrow."
