So we carried on our hunt, north to Flakowitz on Boynton Beach Boulevard. The place has been in southern Palm Beach County for 50 years, first as a bakery, then as a bagel shop, and now as a full restaurant for the past 12 years. The late Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House once threatened to sue Flakowitz for allegedly stealing recipes ("Sue for Your Supper," October 7, 1999), so it seemed like a fine contender for new deli king.
Flakowitz has none of the bright lights of Ben's and instead was decorated with worn carpets, aging wooden booths, and Spartan furnishings like an Ebbets Field street sign and a couple of large mirrors. We had little hope of finding a Wolfie's replacement from looking at the menu, which seemed more diner than Jewish deli, with melts and triple-decker sandwiches.
A hit: Ben's hot pastrami sandwich.
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Ben's New York Kosher Delicatessen, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 9942 Clint Moore Road, Boca Raton. Call 561-470-9963.
Matzo ball soup, $4.49
Stuffed cabbage, $15.99
Pastrami sandwich, $9.99
Corned beef sandwich, $9.99
Flakowitz Deli of Boynton Restaurant, 8 a.m. to 7:45 p.m. daily. 7410 Boynton Beach Blvd., Boynton Beach. Call 561-742-4144.
Blintzes, $11.45
Rachel sandwich, $12.95
Brisket sandwich, $12.95
Zinger's Deli, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 7132 Bercasa Way, Boca Raton. Call 561-826-7323.
Matzo ball soup, $3.99
The Rachel sandwich, $12.99
Hot corned beef sandwich, $9.99
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But then we took in the scene. The maître d' worked the early-bird crowd of retirees, leading the "beautiful ladies" to their tables and urging on the gentlemen. He was maybe early 60s, the youngest guy in the house. "Take care of this group," he said to our waitress. "It's their first time."
Dinner starts with a basket of bread baked in-house that could feed these people for a week, with rye, white, sweet nut, and a shiny challah roll that was soon pulled apart and slathered with butter. Everything comes with a free fountain drink or coffee.
A framed Guy Fieri poster bragged about a visit from TV's most annoying food-show host, so we ordered what he had: the Triple D, matzo ball soup, stuffed cabbage, and a knish. The soup wasn't as high-end-looking as Ben's, but the broth was slow-simmered, bits of carrots and celery collecting against a fluffy matzo ball. The stuffed cabbage tasted mostly of the sauce, too sweet from honey and brown sugar, leaving it tasting like Chinese duck sauce. The knish was flaky and a bit sweet, stuffed with buckwheat and potato and disappearing quickly on an overstuffed table.
The brisket was a bit overcooked and dry unless drenched with the side of jus, as if the kitchen realized its mistake. But the pastrami on the Rachel sandwich was peppery enough to combat the bite from the sauerkraut, all drenched in a couple of slices of American cheese and between bread slathered and toasted to cracker-crisp.
The only thing on the table not immediately devoured were the blintzes, served like four tiny burritos grilled on two sides. Some of my party loved the filling, but to me, it tasted like a jar of Fluff.
Our server didn't know what was inside, so she asked another. "The cheese in the blintz? Well, it's ricotta and three others. I don't know what the others are." (Later, co-owner Robert Pirozzi said the filling is a cream cheese, which still doesn't explain that marshmallow texture.)
After we polished off the table, our server came by with a dessert tray crammed with cheesecakes and custards. She recommended the babka, baked in the shape of a muffin, exploding upward with a swirl of chocolate and crumbles. "It's like Entenmann's but better," she explained. She could've boasted more about that babka, a flaky and tender crumb cake that proved this place has a full-on bakery.
The maître d' was working the crowd at the bakery counter as we left. He shook our hands and urged us to come back and try the black and white cookies. "I'm not the owner, but I love it here," he said.
Sure, Flakowitz doesn't have the shiny look of Ben's, and there are far too many references to Guy Fieri on the menus and servers' shirts. But its pastrami, its babka, and its Jewish-deli friendliness will make you forget about a little place called Wolfie's.