Like the rest of the menu, desserts were mixed. Bell's Stout makes another appearance in the aromatic chocolate pudding, evoking a pleasantly bitter aftertaste. The chocolate milkshake stayed nostalgically cool in a metal cup, with a black straw and a long, narrow spoon. Flecks of vanilla bean swam in the thick, rich treat.

Then our last dessert arrived: strawberry shortcake drizzled with a balsamic reduction and topped with macerated strawberries and a rounded ball of vanilla bean ice cream. I carefully gathered a perfect bite: one spoonful with precise amounts of berry, ice cream, and biscuit. But the biscuit — a burnt, black-bottomed puck — was impossible to flake apart.

Philly pretzel bread — house-made devilled ham and Bell's stout cheese spread.
Philly pretzel bread — house-made devilled ham and Bell's stout cheese spread.

Details

The Foxy Brown, 723 E. Broward Blvd., Fort Lauderdale. 754-200-4236; thefoxybrown.com. Open Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Brunch Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner 2 to 10 p.m. Brunch Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Green fries $7

Philly pretzel bread $9

Chicken-and-porcini meatball grinder $11

Patty melt $10

Beef-a-roni $18

Corvina en papillote $22

Strawberry shortcake $6

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I wiped off my greasy fingers, slugged the last sip of my drink, and tottered to my car, mostly alone with my nitpicks. The cool crowd paid me no mind, dug into their plates, and undoubtedly returned for those sake bloody marys at brunch.

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