Lamb meatballs ($12), known as keftedes, arrived golfball-sized atop a streak of homemade tzatziki sauce — a combination of yogurt, cucumber, dill, and garlic — paired with a roasted tomato and fresh dill sprigs. These arrived not fried and flattened, as is traditional, but grilled, thus retaining all of their fatty natural juices.

Spanakopita ($9), Greek spinach pies, were wrapped as individual pastries rather than slices out of a larger pie. The phyllo crust was thin, flaky, and perfectly crispy. The chopped spinach filling, however, seemed a touch underseasoned.

Lamb chops ($29) were the biggest letdown, due to the combination of excess fat left on the chop, bland fried fingerling potatoes, and an overabundance of that good olive oil. A fish, though, was the star of the show.

Lamb chops, priced at $29, were the biggest letdown.
Christine Capozziello
Lamb chops, priced at $29, were the biggest letdown.

Location Info

Map

Thasos Greek Taverna

3330 E. Oakland Park Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33308

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Beaches

Details

Thasos Greek Taverna, 3330 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale. Call 954-200-6006. Open 5 to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Taramosalata $7

Thasos Summer Salad $10

Keftedes $12

Lamb chops $29

Lavraki $33

Seafood makes up the largest part of the entrées, keeping with Mylona's adherence to the traditional Greek combinations of fish, legumes, and vegetables, plus a family history in fishing. Her father was a commercial fisherman in Greece and around the world, and Leontarakis had been a fisherman on Thasos, the Greek island, before moving to the United States. The menu includes lavraki ($33). Fish is sourced from Fort Lauderdale's Q Plus Seafood and other places.

Lavraki, a Mediterranean sea bass, was grilled whole with lemon and olive oil in the kitchen. Then servers deboned the fish tableside and re-served it with a squeeze of lemon. They had the good sense to offer us the head before disposing it. The pricey fish yielded two fillets that were perfectly flaky. The fish itself is delicate — one might even call it slightly bland — yet the simple combination of oil, lemon, and herbs gave it a flavor just as big and satisfying as well-marbled steak.

Anyone who has spent time in Greece may sneer and say that eating at Thasos is nothing like being on a hillside overlooking the Aegean Sea. Yet Mylona and Leontarakis have managed to import their homeland's highlights with food that's light and well-prepared and a menu that encourages sharing and an overall joie de vivre. They've pulled it off with a restaurant that's unmistakably Greek without being tacky. Coming here is a much shorter, cheaper trip than jetting to the real Thasos, and no one is protesting over the sovereign debt crisis. It's a trip we suggest you take.

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2 comments
GAD13
GAD13

What a disappointment. We live next door and highly anticipated the opening. Too bright and antiseptic. Feels like you're in a hospital. Lots of staff but slow to attend to us. Food can not come close to Greek Isles across A1A. Can we get our Denny's back?

Garth
Garth

It's not on the Atlantic, or any other waterway. Just so nobody gets the wrong idea.

 
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