Casa Frida: Finally – an Excellent Mexican Restaurant in Fort Lauderdale

Victor handled the company's wine program and special events while Julieta took care of VIPs.

"Do you know what posole is?" he asks. The blood-red soup, which we didn't try, comes with slow-roasted pork shoulder, big tender kernels of hominy corn, oregano, and crushed chili and dates back to the era before European explorers arrived. The Aztecs ritually ate an ancient version of this soup during special occasions. At times, it was said to have been made with human meat.

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Casa Frida's signature dishes are made with cochinita pibil, a marinated pork leg.

Details

Casa Frida Mexican Grill, 5441 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call 954-530-3668.

Tamale with chicken red mole $3

Los panuchos $7.50

Steak norteña $12

Seafood tacos $8.50

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• Frida Kahlo
• Julieta Bocos
• Cancun
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

Julieta is likewise eager to explain the depth of each element of the restaurant, that the glass jars on each table, filled with jalapeño peppers, disks of carrot and cauliflower florets, are called escabeche. "I'll bring you some chips so you can try it," she says before disappearing into a door near the open kitchen. The pickled vegetables are numbingly spicy alone or with a chip but, cut up and added to any dish, make the perfect hot sauce.

Steak norteña ($12) originated in northern Mexico and is a huge offering that was nearly impossible to finish as the restaurant fills up during the weekday lunch hour. The kitchen, staffed by cooks from Mexico City, managed to cook a thin strip steak, larger than a man's hand with outstretched fingers, to a perfect medium rare. It is accompanied by two enchiladas stuffed with piquant, sweet onions and cheese topped with a smoky sweet green tomatillo sauce. The price seems even more a bargain as the plate is expectedly filled out by refried black beans, rice, and a healthy dollop of smooth guacamole that holds an acidic punch.

The Bocoses' small wait staff followed their lead. Servers eagerly explained unfamiliar dishes and checked in after each bite. Julieta says she wants Casa Frida to be cozy. It is, thanks to warm service, despite the sensory overload from the walls.

The Bocoses have taken on the doubly hard tasks of fighting the stereotypical perceptions of Mexican food and trying to reeducate people where they've already formed opinions. However, the chocolate in the chili sauce and the constant plying of guests with a glass of wine or a margarita is the right way to start. Sure, they've got a long way to go before putting Taco Bell out of business, but we hope to be there every step of the way.