Tipsy Boar: A Gastropub Grows in Hollywood

For a slideshow, click here.

Tipsy Boar: A Gastropub Grows in Hollywood
General Manager Adam Russell and the Tipsy Boar's chicken and waffles ($12).

More than two decades ago, the Sardelli family opened Franco's Pizzeria in Davie. It was the first time a young Fulvio Sardelli Jr., now 35, had worked in a restaurant. "My first job... was washing dishes and then rolling garlic rolls," he says in a thick, slightly raspy Italian accent. The pizzeria's name was later changed to Fulvio's, for Fulvio Sr., and the whole restaurant moved to downtown Hollywood to become Fulvio's 1900.

The eatery is still there, one block south of Hollywood Boulevard, on Harrison Street. On a Thursday night, a valet sat outside waiting to park another Mercedes, and through draped windows, we could see men in sport coats and women in conservative blouses sip wine out of large crystal glasses, illuminated by the soft glow of candlelight. In late 2012, down the street on the beachfront, the family opened a second restaurant, Sardelli's – an opulent Italian steak house in a $1.6 million villa.

For a slideshow, click here.

Amped-up mac and cheese with lobster ($18).
Amped-up mac and cheese with lobster ($18).

Location Info

Map

The Tipsy Boar

1906 Harrison St.
Hollywood, FL 33020

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Hollywood

Details

The Tipsy Boar, 1906 Harrison St., Hollywood; 954-920-2627; thetipsyboar.com. Open 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily.

Reuben spring rolls $9

Lobster corn dog $12

Duck confit pizza $13

Chicken and waffles $12

Pork belly sliders $10

Lobster mac and cheese $18

For a slideshow, click here.

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Now, two doors down from Fulvio's 1900, at the Tipsy Boar Gastropub, Fulvio Jr. is serving the kind of food that a regular at the family's other two restaurants would be surprised to find. And he's teamed up with a chef who's ripe for a comeback.

A decade ago, Michael Blum was building a name for himself as Broward's celebrity chef just as the Food Network was exploding and foodie culture was becoming a thing. ("I want to be the next Emeril, the next Wolfgang Puck, the next Norman Van Aken," Blum told New Times in 2004.) In 2002, his namesake restaurant, Michael's Kitchen (motto: "the cure for boring food") moved from Sheridan Street to downtown Hollywood when the city, in the midst of a redevelopment, wooed him with a $150,000 grant. Michael's Kitchen closed abruptly in 2005, burning the city that had given him funds, and reopened in Sunny Isles at the Newport Hotel in 2007. But that venture was short-lived as well.

"We wanted to go in different directions," Blum explains now. "They [the owners of the Newport Hotel] wanted a nightclub, and I wanted a restaurant. They got their nightclub, and I decided to move on."

He was briefly involved with Holy Smoke's American Bistro & Bar on PGA Boulevard, and after a divorce and a low-key period, Blum opened a catering and consulting company, Downtown Bakery Co., where he reinvented himself as South Florida's self-proclaimed "Knish King" and specialized in traditional kosher foods.

The toque and the Sardelli family have known each other for more than two decades, and Blum says that when Fulvio Sr. mentioned the new project, he jumped at it.

Fulvio Jr., who has a narrow, handsome face with piercing blue eyes, a close-cropped beard, and slicked black hair, is humble about the new venture, saying he just decided to serve the kind of food he likes to eat after a long shift in the kitchen or during a game.

"We owned the property, and we were just looking to have a place where we can go grab a beer and something out of the deep fryer," Sardelli said, explaining what prompted him to open the new venture. "We decided to put together a beer concept, and we're winging it.

"Every night when I finish [at Sardelli's] between 11:30 p.m. and 2 a.m., you can find me there at their bar," he added. Look for the beard and either a chef coat or a crisp, white v-neck T-shirt. Sardelli said he spends mornings at the Tipsy Boar overseeing the day's prep work before heading out to Hollywood Beach to run dinner service at Sardelli's.

But the offerings might surprise customers who've come to know the Sardellis for their delicate, handmade pastas and carefully prepared beef, veal, and fish dishes.

With items like the Reuben spring roll ($9) — with juicy, salty corned beef, Swiss cheese, Thousand Island dressing, and sauerkraut inside a fried wrapper, dipped in the accompanying ramekin of vinegary brown mustard — it's clear that Fulvio Jr. and Blum have more than just Italian cooking secrets in the pantry.

Across the country, the "gastropub" restaurant concept has exploded in recent years. The concept revolves around serving good beer and carefully prepared but shamelessly decadent bar food. Think burgers made with Wagyu beef and topped with artisanal cheeses. The standard-bearer of this genre has been April Bloomfield. The British chef's New York City restaurant, the Spotted Pig, opened in 2004 as the city's first gastropub and soon after earned one star in the Michelin Guide and a laundry list of accolades for its toque.

At the Tipsy Boar, an amped-up mac and cheese ($18) came with enough chunks of sweet lobster knuckle meat to warrant the high price tag. A creamy, tangy béchamel sauce, infused with smoky brandy and nutty manchego cheese, was a world apart from the nuclear-orange "cheese" sauce to which we've become accustomed.

The menu is split into six sections: bar snacks, salads, small plates, large plates, burgers, and pizza. The pizza comes from a wood-burning oven wrapped in red brick tucked into a back corner of the restaurant. Across from it, a large, stainless-steel tap room revealed dozens of silver kegs each time the door was opened.

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2 comments
liz-loo
liz-loo

This article just looks like it is written by a friend or someone who went to hight school with one of the guys.  Sorta bounces all over the place.  Not what we have come to expect from the New Times.   

Now the Tipsey Boar. They have a lot of Tap beer there, but not necessarily a great selection.  Seems like they have a lot of the same stuff over and over again.  

The bartender guy is rude, the girl Jewels who works there is great, but the food in inconsistent at best and they are still trying to "find themselves".  House music one minute and a live 70's band the next.    The place will stay busy, like everything else around there, just because of the overflow from Whiskey Tango, but it still needs lots of work if it wants to stand on its own.  Good luck.

 
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