Circumstances and the economy being what they are, a trip across the Atlantic for authentic Italian gelato isn't likely to happen for most of us. In the meantime, the hazelnut gelato from Sonny's Gelato Cafe will help us pretend. The environs are in no way reminiscent of those little Italian villages where tourists whisper sweet nothings to so many tiny cups of frozen cream, but the Boca store's freshly made gelato acts as a tasty little stand-in for the experience. The ratio of sugar to cream is just so; this isn't one of those gut-busting frozen scoops that will leave you gasping for water and swearing off sweets. If anything, it borders dangerously on demanding a weekly habit.