Peruvian is in. From farm-to-tables to neighborhood cafés, you can find a ceviche or Peruvian-inspired dish on almost any menu. That's certainly not a bad thing. But if you're looking for the best example of the omnipresent cuisine, you want to go authentic. You want Gordo's Grill. Situated in one of the many strip malls that line Sample Road in Margate, Gordo's does simple, traditional Peruvian cuisine. All of the favorites can be found here: causas, chilled layers of creamy mashed potato, avocados, choice of meat, and olive or golf sauce; anticuchos, skewers of chicken, beef, or beef heart; eight ceviches ($11.50 to $18); tiraditos, the Peruvian equivalent of sashimi ($11.50 to $19); aji de gallina, chicken served in a creamy, spicy yellow sauce made with the ever-present aji amarillo chili... You get the drift.