Any place that calls itself "home of the kebab" pretty much tells you its intentions up-front. Problem is, not so many restaurants can make themselves into a home you'd like to live in. Ferdos succeeds not just because the décor is cozy, the dining room is clean, the wine list is reasonably priced, and the menu is extensive but because its kebabs really are that good -- juicy, marinated lamb, chicken, shrimp, beef, and even veggie skewers for the vegan. A touch of Mediterranean sophistication in the mussels poached with Pernod and the escargots nestled into puff pastry only adds to Ferdos's allure. But for all the Barazi family's success in cookery, it just might be the kibbeh -- raw lamb seasoned with cracked wheat, chopped onions, and olive oil -- that closes the deal.
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