The Wans have been running Chinese restaurants around South Florida for more than 40 years, satisfying cravings for fermented black beans or Peking duck without inducing any Fear-Factor-type gag reflexes -- no jellyfish or clotted pig's blood. Ms. Wan is a presence at her new place -- chic and sharp-eyed -- and as always, the restaurant purveys a decent selection of vegetarian dishes. Delicious specialties include the supersweet orange beef made with candied tangerine peel, a jewel-like dish of eggplant in oyster sauce with strips of pork, a unique butterfly shrimp foo yong with bacon, and a selection of very fine homemade potstickers and dumplings.