The name may suggest a smoky bar, but stricter translations are in order: Cohiba means excellent, and that's exactly what this restaurant is. Sup on Peruvian ahi tuna ceviche and tenderloin-sausage brochette that is served as a spit turning over a real fire, and do it for a reasonable amount of money. Dishes run the global gamut from Japanese beef salad to wine-braised lamb shank to risotto, but rest assured all are handled with equal aplomb. Presentations are dramatic right down to desserts like tiramisu, which is actually a chocolate soufflé topped with mascarpone ice cream and an amaretto-espresso sauce. Best of all, the wine list features boutique bottles from small producers all over the world, and the markup is minimal.
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After calling the eight-month-old Cohiba Brasserie in Pembroke Pines, I wasn't too jazzed about my forthcoming visit there. I'd phoned for two reasons -- to find out if reservations were required, given that it was a Saturday evenin...