Putting the "dine" in diner, the Thai and Japanese dishes at this roadside joint are superb. Mee krob isn't too sweet; pad Thai isn't too fishy; curries are beautifully balanced. For Japanese fare, order any one of the numerous fresh-fish rolls or the katsu - pounded chicken or pork that's deep-fried and served with plum sauce. Wash it all down with endless mugs of freshly brewed green tea.
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I demand a lot from my neighborhood diners. I count on brisk service, for one thing, whether I'm popping in for breakfast, late-night dinner, or a bottomless mug of coffee. For another I prefer that the décor be casual, even ...