Red Light is a unique restaurant with great food prepared by a gifted chef at peerless prices -- in either a boisterous, buoyant environment or by a serenely flowing river. The fun and funky diner fills with a largely local clientele that exudes a more salt-of-the-earth vibe than is usually found at restaurants run by chefs as notable as Kris Wessel. There are no appetizers or entrées listed as such, but most of the menu specialties can serve in either capacity. Fresh, regional American comfort foods include a hot skillet of baked organic eggs draped with melted Morbier and bacon crisps ($11); thin slices of sous vide Florida spiny lobster ($16); New Orleans-inspired barbecued shrimp smothered in thin, dark, peppery sauce; corn-bread-crusted fillet of local hog snapper atop a sprightly black-bean/sour-orange stir-fry ($17); and plum-roasted quail, one or two juicy birds ($8/$15). Sides include mac 'n' cheese and grits with blue cheese, and homespun desserts such as peach-blueberry tart and "lunch counter" chocolate cake are heartwarmingly delicious.
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