There's no better way to mop up a sauce made from fresh tomatoes, green peppers, onions, and the remnants of perfectly cooked chunks of tender lamb than with a piece of Taj's chewy onion kulcha, a bread baked on hot tandoor walls. Every dish here is unique, intensely aromatic, with a mixture of spices unlike any of its neighbors. Colors and textures vary from the odd, sweet, brilliantly red pickled potatoes served at the lunch buffet to the dense brown blanket of the mashed eggplant bharta, the soulful green gravy of buttery spinach and cheese saag paneer, the butter and cream-colored chicken korma studded with raisins and almonds, or the bright-pink, yogurt-infused, fall-off-the-bone tandoori chicken pieces. Taj's channa masala manages to be head-clearingly spicy and still intensely comforting. A buffet lunch, served daily, features Punjab-Bengali standbys; dinner is a la carte.