Excellent spicing distinguishes this crown jewel from the pretenders that crowd the county. Samosas, pakora, and onion bhajia are all grease-free and crisp, and a half-dozen varieties of pliant naan challenge the decisionmaker. Lamb saag and butter shrimp rival each other for succulence. Terrific chutneys, pappadam, and raita at Fort Lauderdale's Royal India.
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