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Some folks have been crowing about Ambrosia's pizza for 31 years, as long as the restaurant has been in business - so the huge "Best Pizza!" sign on the door reminds anybody within squinting distance. Not much has changed in all that time, least of all the bizarre and ugly décor. Go for the pizza and skip the mediocre Italian menu - your pizza will come to the table sizzling hot enough to sear the roof of your mouth, a good, old-fashioned American pie reminiscent of early Pizza Hut. With its nicely browned, chewy, doughy crust, soft and custardy in the thickest parts, dried flecks of oregano and canned mushrooms, this pie is neither New York style nor bubbly, blackened Neapolitan. But at $12.95 for a medium, it's a rare bargain and a nostalgic trip back in the time machine.