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Buccan is named after the wooden grill used to cook food over an open fire in the Caribbean. It’s the culinary vision of chef/partner Clay Conley, who surely learned a few things about dealing with South Florida’s rich, famous, and famously entitled during his years as exec chef at überluxe Azul at Miami’s posh Mandarin Oriental. (His success in that position can be measured simply by how quickly he made local diners and other people of food forget about his predecessor, celebrity chef Michelle Bernstein.) Conley’s food is the kind of casual-yet-sophisticated, chef- and ingredient-driven cuisine you’d expect to find in New York or Chicago — but here it is on the ritzy island of Palm Beach. The menu is mostly small plates, many of which can be bulked up to heftier portion, as well as a half-dozen or so more typical entrées. Even the priciest dishes are within reach of the middle class, with large plates in the mid to high-20s and nibbles and small plates ranging from $3 to $15. Try the steak tartar (a generous portion with a deep, lusty flavor), Brussels sprouts (made with green apples and pork bellies), or the best thing to happen to pasta since the invention of the tomato: squid ink orecchiette. Lamb chops are underwhelming; opt instead for the shrimp scampi (giant shrimp in a garlic sauce) or even the burger, made with prime beef and a side of thick, Parmesan-dusted fries.