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Daniel Boulud's restaurant inside the Brazilian Court hotel is luxurious but not ostentatious. The service is starched and traditional, but you won't be made to feel out of place if your typical dining destinations are in more humble surroundings. Executive chef Jim Leiken -- who replaced longtime chef Zach Bell in 2011 -- turns out bold takes on traditional dishes, like roasted Amish chicken with crispy leg confit and black truffle chicken jus, or Swiss chard ravioli with heirloom tomatoes and a walnut pesto basil broth. Fusion dishes like lobster bisque Thailandaise or a saffron tagliatelle show off Leiken's well-traveled pedigree.