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If you happen to pass by and feel inexorably drawn in to this chic, comfortable Italian bistro, you'll probably be out of luck: The place is fully booked even on Monday nights. But it's worth a phone call ahead, because Centro's an unbeatable neighborhood deal, from the elegant pizzas to the homemade pastas, all at reasonable prices. Steamed clams, raw oysters, crab cakes, and salmon carpaccio are among the appetizers. The entrée lineup includes grilled free-range chicken, grouper Livornese, and black squid ink pasta with calamari and shrimp in spicy arugula and tomato sauce. The atmosphere is hip, urban, and inviting: gorgeous exposed-beam ceilings, endless glass doors thrown open on sidewalk tables, and exposed brick. Don't miss the divine Italian rum cake for dessert.