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The bubbly, blackened, coal-oven crust is only one reason a good pizza parlor like Carolina's is universally loved. Other considerations go into the mix - price, the delectability of salad and antipasti, the availability of decent table wine, the quality of the sauce, the cuteness of the staff's T-shirts, and the presence and joviality of the owner. Carolina's aces all. This pizza joint set in a 1932 Florida cottage exudes charm from the rustic recipes developed by owner Enrico Esposito's mother and grandmother to the breezy porches and wood floors, and every dish from clams oreganata and giant meatballs with pomodoro sauce right through the pizzas and chopped salads makes you realize you can finally give up your longing for Brooklyn or Napoli.