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Reliable, homespun, unabashed American-Chinese food. Not everything rocks the palate, but plenty of it - the velvet chicken-corn soup, for example - at least soothes it. Quality and freshness are definitely guarantees, though, particularly as they concern the shrimp and lobster; detailed preparation enriches every dish from yang chow fried rice to General Tso's chicken. Vegetarians have plenty of options with items like pan-fried bean curd in black bean sauce, and dieters can choose from a light menu. But those who will be most satisfied are fans of such recipes as crab Rangoon, honey-garlic chicken wings, egg foo yung, and the other much-maligned retro fare that is rapidly coming back into vogue.