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Chinese food doesn't get much better than this. The menu roams the provinces from Canton to Szechuan, but Peking may be the restaurant's comfort zone -- the four chefs, imported from New York's Chinatown, have a way with wheat. Steamed pork dumplings and noodle dishes like sesame cold noodle or beef chow fun with black-bean sauce are superb. Peking duck skin, wrapped in pancakes, is soft and crunchy. Stir-fry dishes and hot pots are also excellent.