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If you think Miami is the capital of Cuban cuisine, then you haven't been to Delray Beach lately. What Miami has in numbers, Delray has in quality: Cohiba, a mami-and-papi shop that offers above-and-beyond black beans. A pounded palomilla proves its pedigree, while lechon asado and ropa vieja vie for slow-cooked honors. But it's the seafood and fish flesh - garlic shrimp, lobster Creole, fried grouper - that's the real hook here. Paella Valenciana is a good way to guarantee yourself some plentiful shellfish, but it's made-to-order. How to cope with the requisite one-hour wait? Two words: stuffed yuca. Sit in front of the palm-tree mural and pretend you're back in the home country. At Cohiba, it's that easy.