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Although Taco Bells and Subways have sprung up around this tiny Italian deli and bakery like pokeweeds around a violet, nothing can stop the hot ovens from churning out dozens of warm loaves of bread six days a week; or the "upstate N.Y. style" pizzas; or the buttered steak, sausage, and veal parmigiana sandwiches; or the stuffed breads bulging with pepperoni and cheese. It's the "Italian assorted" sub (six, nine, or 12 inches, $3.40 to $6), though, that really throws down the gauntlet. Stuffed into one of their warm, crusty rolls, a mound of salami, Italian ham, capicola, and provolone is drizzled with olive oil and vinegar, given a shake of oregano, and topped with a handful of tomato, sliced onion, and torn romaine lettuce leaves. Nobody does it better.