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This is the less formal, less expensive, next-door-neighbor and sibling to the upscale Cuoco Pazzo restaurant. They keep it simple here: Fish specials, veal saltimbocca, and cioppino are superbly prepared and as tasty as the originals you might find in Rome. What's that, sharp-eyed reader? You say cioppino comes from California? Well, wise guy, after eating the rendition here, you'll change your tune and swear that the recipe was swiped from Italy. Word is out on this place, and on weekends during season, you'll have to wait an hour or two to get in.