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This tiny, chef-owned place, run by Lake Park native Jason Laudenslager, doesn't take any big risks with its menu, and despite the restaurant's Paris-accented name, there's nothing French about these American bistro standards. You've seen the same dishes at a hundred other restaurants, but you've never been served them cooked so beautifully, from a seared veal chop on its long bone, spilling meaty juices, to an ultracreamy crab and lobster bisque. Baby lamb chops, New York strip steaks, and pork tenderloin are best quality meats; crab cakes, caesar salads, tuna tartare, and potato skins offer tiny tweaks on old favorites. Laudenslager, an ex-bartender who never took a cooking class, prepares these simple meals with flair that spills through the velvet curtains dividing kitchen and dining room, creating an intimacy worthy of the restaurant's name, "Between You and Me."