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Tucked away in a Tudor-style meeting house on Washington Street, a hearty-looking German Frau in a dirndl serves frothy beer in giant mugs at the German American Society of Greater Hollywood. A brass band belts out the John Denver anthem "Take Me Home, Country Roads," followed by a round of German oompah songs. Partygoers sit shoulder to shoulder at picnic tables. They graze on wurst, a German dumpling called knodel, plates of pork shank, plate-sized pretzels with sides of grainy mustard, and suckling pig. Diehard dudes model lederhosen — goofy-looking traditional garb of knickers and suspenders — for another round of the annual Oktoberfest: an epic fall celebration that straddles the end of September through mid-October. The club is open for special events.