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Francis Touboul moved La Cigale from Atlantic Avenue to its just-off-the-beaten-path location, dropping the "Brasserie" and adding a tag line: "A taste of the Mediterranean." The change reflects the chef's heritage (he's Moroccan), but La Cigale has held on to a few of the saucy French delicacies served in its previous incarnation, like foie gras, snail and wild mushroom casserole, sweetbreads with chanterelles, and Dover sole. You'll find Med-inflected tomatoes and fennel bulbs, braised artichokes, and asparagus tips on the new menu, along with moussaka, roast duck with dried fruit, and an antipasto platter that includes hummus, grilled halloumi cheese, stuffed grape leaves, and pateé de campagne. The pommes frites that come with an aged 12-ounce Chairman's Reserve strip steak are serious contenders for best fries in the county.