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Handsome, clubby, corporate, and very expensive, Morton's ranks as one of the best steak-house chains in the nation. USDA-prime meat-eors include the double-cut, 14-ounce filet mignon, the 20-ounce New York strip sirloin, and the 24-ounce porterhouse. Order the chocolate soufflé for dessert at the start of the meal to ensure a sweet ending. But even cheapskates can get a taste of the good life: Morton's "Power Hour" in its ritzy Bar 12-21 is one of the best dinner deals around. Every day from 5 to 6:30 p.m. and then again from 9 p.m. until they close at 11, order any plate from an extensive bar menu for a fiver: cheeseburger sliders, sirloin-tip sandwiches, warm crab and artichoke dip with buttery rounds of toast, crab cakes; or raw oysters at $1 each and jumbo shrimp at $2.50 each paired with half-price cocktails. Check out the famous Morton's Prime Sirloin burger, a three-quarter pounder topped with cheese, plus bacon or mushrooms and served with fries - it's $15; pair it with a $5 glass of wine and you're in bargain-land. Here's a time and place any tightwad can feel like a high roller.