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Partners Nick Coniglio and John Kent Thurston have fashioned their Nuevo California-by-way-of-Palm-Beach menu so that familiar dishes, steaks, and seafood have a kind of ironic playfulness. Either that or they're just flat-out delicious. Nick & Jonnie's crispy calamari come with deep-fried pickles and a side of "comeback sauce"; onion rings are served on a spool. Seafood is perfectly cooked, from the "nice piece of fish" to specials like grouper stuffed with crabmeat; dry-aged prime New York strip is served with a side of béarnaise sauce and crisp, shoestring fries. Desserts like key lime pie or chocolate chip cookies with milk are marvelous in their simplicity. The place is almost all patio, a beautiful hang on balmy nights, and there's often live music or dancing later on.