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With terrazzo floors, black-painted walls, and books for sale that read, "You know you're gay when…," this place definitely grooves to its own beat. All the better, because that vibe creates a warm, welcoming atmosphere where the only thing you need to judge is the quality of the food. And that ranks high: Tender strip steaks topped with blue cheese; plump escargots in a red-wine-and-butter sauce; and penne pasta pleasingly sauced with basil, tomatoes, and cream. For more-exotic fare, check out nightly specials such as dolphin encrusted with pistachios. Homemade desserts, made throughout the evening, include chocolate-chip cookies and brownie sundaes.