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Everyone has a different opinion of Saffron, an Indian restaurant in West Palm. Opinions range from a disheartened meh to enthusiastic praise. And you may feel like you're testing the lottery with bowls of stir-fried chicken do-piaja flecked with chilies, curry leaf, and the fragrant, crushed hulls of coriander and mustard seed; or vegetable korma, touched with the soothing call of cream and laced with slivers of almond and plump, golden raisins. But it's hard to be disappointed in the lovely atmosphere, a dimly lit dining hall punctuated by palatial cherry-wood banquettes shaded with sheer pink curtains and a doting, tuxedoed staff. At times, the place wallows in mediocrity. But if you catch it on a good night, you might be blessed with chicken tikka masala so fresh you can discern every last flavor of cardamom, nutmeg, and coriander as separate elements. Buttered naan is also damned near flawless -- airy, crisp, pillowy in all the right places, with the perfect amount of gluttonous pull.