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Chef Michele Viscosi took over Serafina in 2007 and nudged it from broad Mediterranean to classic Italian. He's paired a lineup of classic dishes from North and South - mussels marinara, carpaccio di manza, pastas, risotto, veal scaloppini, fish soup, and chops - with a reasonably priced wine list of Barolos, Barberas, Amarones, and Chiantis. The menu is simple and pleasant in the style of a small, family-run Italian trattoria. There are no pyrotechnics to draw attention away from the gorgeous setting on the Middle River in Fort Lauderdale, where in fine weather everybody dines outdoors on an intimate dockside patio under torchieres. Because the menu is fairly reserved and modest, all the elements at Serafina - setting, service, and food - fall into balance. What you come away with is not just a full stomach but an experience.