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Coal-fired what? The Sicilian Oven, a partnership between Andrew Garavuso, an ex-Anthony's Coal Fired pizza guy, and Ralph DiSalvo, whose family ran DiSalvo's Pizzeria for years, uses two beautiful wood-burning ovens to cook its pies. Pizzas here sport golden-brown crusts with a moderate amount of caramelized char along the lip. Because they cook at a slightly slower clip than coal oven pizza, the thin dough gains a marked amount of rise. It translates to a chewy, slightly firm crust that stands up well to the judiciously placed toppings -- daily-made, quality ingredients like sautéed broccoli rabe, cervellata sausage, thick-sliced meatballs, and house-roasted peppers. Sicilian Oven also makes Italian small plates like crisp-crusted chicken wings, Sicilian stuffed rice balls, and wood-oven-baked mussels in white wine sauce.