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The Osorio family knows how to make an eminently respectable burrito ($8.99 for one filled with beef tongue and served with refried beans and yellow rice), an excellent huevos a la mexicana ($4.99 with rice, beans, and tortillas), an array of sopas and gorditas, and a fine, smoke-infused taco barbacoa ($1.75). But the thing that's going to knock you flat with admiration is the quesadilla ($1.99 each). Forget everything you think you know about quesadillas - those limp, tasteless rounds served as "small plates" at fern bars -- the Elvira quesadilla is a pillowy, oily handmade tortilla, maybe three-quarters of an inch thick, folded over and sealed around homemade queso fresco (or shredded chicken or picadillo), then topped with more shredded queso and lettuce and served with a fruity, fiery green salsa. Pair it with a bottle of Mexican Victoria beer or a glass of horchata.