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Blue Fish, one outpost of a Texas sushi chain, is not a perfect restaurant. It can be a good restaurant if you order carefully and pay attention to the specials and a bad restaurant if you make a mistake with your cocktails or order the "specialty" rolls. Choose your sushi exactingly from a big menu of raw fish: sea eel; luscious uni topped with a couple of raw quail eggs; creamy, glistening slices of kampachi over vinegared rice; toothsome octopus sliced thin and blushing at the margins like wild roses; silvery pink sea bream. Let them know you're serious: Order whole aji as sashimi, and after you've picked it clean, they'll take it away, flash-fry it, and return it so you can snack on the salty, crunchy bones, head, and tail. Unconventional is the operative way to go here.